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What is Archival Fashion?

Archival fashion refers to the practice of studying, collecting, preserving, and often, wearing significant fashion pieces (clothing and accessories) with historical, artistic, or cultural value. These garments are often rare, sometimes one-of-a-kind, and usually created by well-known designers or fashion houses during pivotal moments in fashion history.

Typical examples of archival fashion includes runway pieces, haute couture, limited-edition collections and collaborations, or designs that represent a turning point for a particular designer or the fashion industry as a whole.

Helmut Lang’s burnt archive book by Elfie Semotan
Helmut Lang’s burnt archive by Elfie Semotan

Why Archival?

These iconic items are considered "archival" because they are not just clothes to be worn, but pieces to be preserved as part of the fashion legacy. They are emblematic, and offer insight into the evolution of style, craftsmanship, and the cultural context of the time they were created.


For example, a Bumster skirt from Alexander McQueen or a Tuxedo (Le smoking) from Yves Saint Laurent would be considered archival fashion. Such items are collected by fashion historians, museums, private collectors, and investors who appreciate the significance of fashion as an art form, as well as its impact on culture.



Is Archival and Vintage fashion the same thing?

Archival fashion is almost always vintage, using the definition of a vintage item being more than 20 years old. This is mainly caused by the fact that it takes a wider time perspective to see what designs and items become truly emblematic of a designer or fashion movement. Hindsight is 20/20!


Collecting Archival Fashion

The trend of collecting archival fashion has been growing significantly in recent years, fueled by a range of factors from fashion’s rising status as an art form to the desire for sustainability, uniqueness, and cultural preservation.


This movement has moved from previously being exclusively embraced by professional fashion collectors, investors, and museum curators, to now also include a growing amount of enthusiasts who recognize the joy and value of preserving iconic clothes and accessories creating their own, personal archives.


Some prominent examples of this is the rise in popularity of archival Helmut Lang, as well as the Old Céline community of loyal Phoebe Philo fans building their archives of discontinued, increasingly rare designs.




In summary

Archival fashion is about curating and safeguarding the past to understand and celebrate fashion’s artistic, cultural, and historical influence. And it is increasingly obvious that hunting down, collecting, wearing and appreciating these rare archival pieces is no longer exclusive to fashion and design professionals. Everyone can join the fun and curate their own, personal fashion archive!

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